In northern Italy, the UNESCO-designated Dolomite range often impresses visitors with its unmistakable pale spires, green alpine plateaus, and densely forested valleys. Between the prominent peaks sit five Ladin valleys — Val Gardena, Val Badia, Val di Fassa, Livinallongo, and Cortina d’Ampezzo — cultural concentrations preserving the traditions of the Ladin. While these valleys are some of the most popular tourist destinations, few realize the culture they’re experiencing has roots tracing back to before the Roman Empire’s expansion into the Alps.
Enter: Ortisei (in Italian), aka St. Ulrich (in German), aka Urtijëi (in Ladin). This village of less than 5,000 full-time residents is Val Gardena’s westernmost town and an entry point to the Südtirol-Alto Adige Dolomites. Like its fellow villages in Val Gardena valley, Ortisei is renowned for its proximity to some of the nation’s best hiking trails and ski runs.
As for culture, deeply Austrian-influenced mountain heartiness blends with the Italian ease of “La Dolce Vita,” felt immediately through the town’s fiercely kept Ladin traditions, intricate chalet-style architecture, and a lengthy list of traditional wellness spa hotels. Between panoramic mountain views, luxurious resorts, and modern Tyrolean cuisine, Ortisei village successfully manages to keep its own tradition as it has for centuries while bringing visitors into harmony with nature.
Here’s exactly what to see and do in Ortisei, including our editor-favorite places to stay.
Exploring Ortisei
Until 1919, Ortisei was part of Austria’s Tyrol region, and the town’s erstwhile heritage lingers in its architecture and cultural customs. Many residents speak German in addition to English, Italian, and Ladin, the language of the Dolomites. And it simply takes one look around to notice the Bavarian-influenced design of traditional hotels and homes that date back centuries.
The town’s main attractions include its namesake church, Chiesa san Ulrico, and the Museum Gherdëina. A quest for Tyrolean dumplings might fuel your adventures, but Ortisei also commands a sizable gourmet scene catering to the resort crowd. Michelin-star restaurants like Gourmet-Restaurant Anna Stuben and Ristorante Tubladel have become attractions in their own right, though a lunch break for pizza at the popular Turonda is always in order, along with post-hike ice cream at Cafe Corso. As for souvenirs, nab one of the traditionally crafted wood carvings that first put Ortisei on the map hundreds of years ago, or head the slow fashion boutique Luis Trenker (named after Ortisei’s famed mountaineer, filmmaker, and actor) for refined mountain style.
Outdoor Activities in Ortisei
Ortisei is surrounded by opportunities for Dolomite mountain recreation in summer and winter. Check out the programming offered weekly through Val Gardena Active, and be certain to purchase a Val Gardena Card if you plan to use multiple lifts.
Summer Adventures
Ortisei serves as an ideal base for summer nature lovers of all levels, especially because of its quick access to popular hut-to-hut hiking trail systems via three lifts: Seceda, Alpe di Siusi, and Resciesa. These cable cars (funicolare in Italian) and gondolas take day hikers directly to the alpine trail meadows, where a host of rifugios offer freshly prepared warm meals, wine, and beer. Some rifugios are directly adjacent to a corresponding lift, like Baita Sofie Hütte next to the Seceda mountain lift, making it possible to experience fine dining at elevation without the hike.
For others, a well-deserved pint and pasta stop at a trail-side mountain hut, such as at Rifugio Firenze, Schlernhaus, or Rifugio Vicenza, is what makes Dolomite day-hiking so memorable.
Of course, all those trails are good for more than just hiking—mountain biking opportunities amidst the breathtaking surroundings abound. Cyclists and their bikes can ride the cable car up to Alpe di Siusi — Europe’s highest plateau, also known as Seiser Alm in German and Mont Sëuc in Ladin — or up the Resciesa funicular to Alpe Resciesa, but the choices don’t end there.
Nordic walking, a full-body hiking concept using poles that was born out of summer training for Nordic skiers, is also popular in the valley, with a dedicated “DSV Nordic Aktiv Park” in Vallunga.
Winter Sports
In winter, the main village transforms from a hiker home base to a ski resort town. The Dolomites are renowned worldwide for their ski slopes, and with average snowfall exceeding 7 feet, there’s more than enough for winter sport enthusiasts. Val Gardena is an excellent choice for a range of skill levels, and Ortisei is known to be the prettiest of the main ski towns in all of the valley.
With Dolomiti Superski providing access to 12 different ski areas on one pass, sports enthusiasts can cruise down South Tyrol’s longest ski slope at Val Gardena/Seiser Alm, carve the Marmolada Glacier at Arabba Marmolada, and venture into the backcountry near the sprawling Val di Fassa. Even better, the famed Sellaronda is just a 50-minute drive from Ortisei, linking four different resorts on one epic ski tour. Winding 40 kilometers around the Sella Massif (including 24 km of lifts), the route passes five mountain villages where skiers can pause for a bowl of dumplings or a bombardino before continuing onward.
Closer to the valley, rent some snowshoes or cross-country skis at one of the many ski shops in Ortisei and venture into Selva Vallunga Valley, bordered by the stony peaks of the Puez plateau.
Hotels in Ortisei
The hotels in Ortisei lean heavily into the Dolomites’ reputation for mountain luxe, and visitors won’t have a hard time finding accommodations that suit their wants and needs. Secluded, Swiss-style chalets? Adults-only stays? Bikepacker-friendly comforts? The choice is yours.
With most hotels providing the option for a half-board (serving breakfast and typically a gourmet, multi-course dinner), heading out for a day of fun is made easy. Plus, the spa culture of the Dolomites is legendary the world over, and there’s no shortage of hotels with out-of-this-world wellness centers.
Here are some of our favorite hotels in Ortisei:
- ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti: ADLER hotels are known for refining luxury in nature, and ADLER Spa Resort Dolomiti is no exception. An expansive 5-star spa property in the heart of Ortisei and perhaps the standard for the village.
- Hotel Garni Snaltnerhof: This 3-star bed-and-breakfast dates back to the 17th century, but now thoroughly caters to 21st-century guests via comfortable rooms, an on-site restaurant, and the Mar Dolomit wellness center.
- Hotel Grones: The 4-star Hotel Grones opened in 1933 with just three apartments and has since expanded with saunas, a relaxation room, and a restaurant serving modernized South Tyrolean fare.
- Hotel Gardena Grödnerhof: A terraced, 5-star Relais & Châteaux property on the outskirts of town.
- Hotel Angelo Engel: The 4-star boutique Hotel Angelo Engel, located in centrally located Swiss-esque buildings, includes a lavishly appointed spa and wellness center.
- Cavallino Bianco Family Spa Grand Hotel: At the 4-star Cavallino Bianco, every detail of a family-friendly stay has been accounted for, including abundant children’s programs and room fixtures designed specifically for little ones—kids can even attend the themed cocktail parties at Posta’s Bar.
- Hotel Digon: Anyone with mountain biking on their itinerary should book a stay at 3-star Hotel Digon, a Certified Bike Hotel surrounded by rolling mountain pastures.
A few minutes’ drive or bus ride from Ortisei city center, even more exquisite accommodations mingle modern alpine design with local traditions. Adults-only hotels like Alpin Garden Luxury Maison and Spa and La Cort My Dollhouse, along with the wellness-focused Alpenheim Charming Hotel & Spa, bring the spa concept to new heights.
In fact, what may be our favorite stay is located just outside of town. 4-star Hotel Niblea overlooks the valley and provides a balance of contemporary luxury powered by generational family-run hospitality: expect exceptional coursed dinners, hiking and skiing access, an outdoor pool with Seceda views, and a sauna overlooking Ortisei itself.
Read our full review of Hotel Niblea.
Day Trips from Ortisei
Travelers could spend weeks in Ortisei without exhausting the possibilities for outdoor recreation and indoor relaxation, but even more can be found outside the town limits. Set aside a day or two for exploring Sëlva and Santa Cristina—Ortisei’s neighbors in the Val Gardena valley featuring attractions like the Monte Pana, S. Cristina’s cross-country skiing mecca, and the 2,100-meter-tall Col Raiser alp.
A little further afield, a short bus ride will take travelers to the tiny Valle Isarco town of Ponte Gardena, home to the imposing Trostburg Castle. Meanwhile, those who want to swap quaint villages for the province’s capital city should spend some time in Bolzano, a likely place travelers will pass through on their way to Val Gardena. Finally, if traveling by car (more on this shortly), take a road trip to the famous glacial Lake Braies, 1.5 hours away deep in the Dolomite range.
Getting to Ortisei
To reach Ortisei, it’s easiest to take a train or plane to Bolzano (frequently called by its German name, Bozen), then a scenic 1-hour bus ride to Ortisei. Trains run regularly from Milan (about a 3-hour journey) and Venice (about a 3.5-hour journey) into Bolzano. Once in Bolzano, use the South Tyrol Mobile app, an essential tool to find regional bus and train schedules and to plan your routes. This app makes it incredibly easy to see the schedule and to hop on the 350 bus direct from Bolzano to the center of Ortisei (which may appear as Bozen, Busbahnhof to St. Ulrich, Antoniusplatz in the app). There are a few other routes to Ortisei that are longer and less direct, but just as enjoyable to meander through the winding mountain roads and little villages.
Bus drivers are friendly and helpful, but not all speak English. It’s common for travelers to be on buses with luggage, just be prepared that some buses require you to put the luggage underneath. The locals here are also very friendly and go out of their way to help new bus riders.
Though car rentals can be found in the Dolomites, there’s no better way to get around Ortisei than the bus system. South Tyrol has perhaps the most reliable and punctual transit operations in all of Italy, and using the bus system greatly alleviates the overtourism this area experiences. It also simplifies point-to-point hiking, making it possible to ride one gondola up, take a different one down, and end with a short bus ride back to Ortisei.
Participating Ortisei hotels (which is most of them) give guests a free Val Gardena Mobil Card, a bus pass that allows visitors free access to explore the valley. Again, use the South Tyrol Mobile app to determine schedules. On a side note, if you’re traveling throughout South Tyrol for longer, we also encourage travelers to buy a 7-day guest pass on the app. This provides access to all trains and buses for a price of about 45 euros for seven days.
With that said, you may need that car after all during Val Gardena’s shoulder seasons. The gondolas and funiculars typically only run in winter and summer; without them, a car will be the best option to access mountain trailheads or take longer day trips from the village.
Ortisei Weather
Weather in the high-altitude Dolomites is notably unpredictable. In summer, visitors could see bluebird skies one day with chilly clouds and fog the next, or be caught in a rainstorm without warning. Luckily, most rifugios are prepared to temporarily shelter hikers, but it is still important to pack emergency rain gear if you’re hiking.
Due to its valley location, Ortisei is slightly more predictable, with mild summers averaging highs in the 70s and lows in the 50s. Winter brings temperatures of freezing and below, plus ample snowfall that sticks around the village until late spring.
No matter when you visit, pay close attention to the forecast, ask the locals, and be flexible with your plans. Many of the lifts also have webcams (check out the Seceda Live Webcam) to check on the mountain conditions, which may be dramatically different than the valley. You can even use this tool to help you decide what to pack before you leave, keeping in mind that even in late May or early June, there’s still a chance for a rogue snowstorm.
The Best Time to Visit Ortisei
Since most amenities in the Val Gardena only operate during summer and winter, these two seasons are the best chance to experience everything Ortisei. To avoid crowds and costs, visit during the beginning or end of these seasons—just come prepared for fewer resources, like hotels, cable cars, and restaurants, compared to busier times of the year.
Alternatively, travelers can plan a trip around one of Val Gardena’s annual events. Summertime festivities include the Folklore Festival, Sellaronda Bike Day, and the Unika Art Fair, a celebration of the valley’s long-standing woodcarving traditions. Come winter, the December Christmas Markets herald the arrival of the most wonderful time of the year and two World Cup ski races take place in S. Cristina’s Saslong.
