The Dukagjini region is one of the most isolated areas in the Western Balkans. Guarded by river-carved mountains, this is a place where tradition endures, and characteristic stone houses, known as Kullë or Kulla, continue to keep watch. Reaching this part of Albania involves a multi-step journey through challenging terrain and limited infrastructure — a route that shifts the pace and sharpens presence.
It’s among these peaks and scattered villages that Neomalsore Agrotourism stands: a working farm and eco-retreat shaped by the rhythms and traditions of the highlands that have guided it for 14 generations.
Life here unfolds in a quiet conversation of place. Neomalsore Agrotourism is the work of Marjana Koçeku, who transformed her family’s traditional Kulla house into a space for visitors to experience the Albanian highlands as they are. The project combines sustainable tourism with a respect for local culture, offering an intimate encounter with traditional foods, customs, and the landscape itself.
The name Neomalsore means “the new highlander” — a call to return to the roots, encouraging the younger generation to reconnect with their origins and forge a closer bond with the land.
“Here we have electricity only with a generator in the evening, so bring power banks or pre-downloaded things. WiFi is weak — we only connect with nature. As it is a traditional house, the toilet is outside in the yard. The shower is warmed by the sun. Welcome to Neomalsore Agrotourism!”
Oceanmoon Creative took in Marjana’s words in anticipation of their experience, ready to be immersed, observing and documenting its essence through photography.
Here is a first-hand, inside look at Neomalsore Agrotourism through their lens.
Getting To Neomalsore
Our journey to Neomalsore is an experience in itself. We fly into Tirana, then take a 5 a.m. four-hour bus ride to Lake Komani – a journey that would be shorter if not for the regular stops at roadside cafés, where it’s customary for locals to linger over espresso. We join in without hesitation.
Once we arrive at the lake, Marjana’s brother, Ndue Molla, greets us. As both guide and captain, he leads us to his weathered boat, and we set off, first across the turquoise of Komani Lake, then upriver into the Drini Valley.
The views on this stretch evoke the haze and highlands of northern Vietnam more than any hidden corner of Europe.
We pause for another coffee on the river’s edge, a moment to soak in the beauty of the rugged landscape before continuing on. By the time we arrive deep in the valley at Neomalsore, we’re already immersed in its rhythm — a felt intention to every detail and a way of living where nothing is rushed.
Marjana welcomes us with a warm hug and gives us a tour of the space while sharing stories of her ancestors, highlander folklore, and the traditions that shape this land.
It already feels like home.
Immersed in Local Traditions and Daily Life
Slow living comes naturally here. Chickens roam freely through the steep gardens, figs and grapes hang ripe from the vines, and the riverside farmland yields an abundance of fresh produce.
From field to table, Marjana’s family is behind it all. Every day, we’re nourished with homegrown and locally sourced food.
In the mornings, we wake to the scent of freshly made petulla — fluffy Albanian pancakes cooked over an open fire by Nana, Marjana’s mother. Goat cheese, always a staple, is served alongside homemade fig jam, my personal favorite. The simple meals are nourishing and full of flavor, mirroring the land.
Regenerative Living
The longer we stay, the more it’s clear: everything here is connected. The food we eat is grown on-site or sourced from neighbors, the energy is used mindfully, and nothing is wasted. Tourism supports local livelihoods directly — be it the farmers growing the beans for our breakfast or the boat captains and guides proud to show us their home.
Marjana and her family believe in blending a circular economy with tradition as the foundation for the future. Their stewardship of this place extends beyond Neomalsore, where they assist other families in reviving abandoned properties and transforming them into sustainable guesthouses. They understand that sustainability goes beyond conserving nature; it means keeping heritage alive, designing for modern needs, and building a way of life that allows future generations to thrive.
As guests, we’re invited into this slower, conscious way of being — far from passive observers, we’re encouraged to truly take part.
Walking the Mountains in Solitude
We spend our afternoons exploring the surrounding mountains that endlessly stretch in every direction. On one particular day, local guide Franko Suka leads us along the highland trails, naming plants, pointing out healing herbs, and sharing stories of animals that move silently through these forests. The rest of our afternoons, we wander on our own, feet crunching softly over dry leaves, breathing in the sharp, clean air, and pausing for refreshing dips in waterfall pools.
We don’t pass another soul for hours, except for the occasional herder offering a warm nod, and goats clattering up the hillside.
These hikes restore something fundamental within us, renewing a quiet harmony between ourselves and the natural world.
Returning to Nature’s Rhythm
Much of what we learned at Neomalsore comes from quietly observing the land and the people who live with it. Life here unfolds with the seasons — planting, harvesting, resting — each part of the year marked by a unique energy. There’s no need to rush. Neomalsore invites us to notice, to listen, to move with the rhythms of nature rather than pushing against them.
This valley holds many stories, but perhaps its greatest lesson is this: when we learn to live with nature, not against it, we remember who we are.
This article is written in partnership with Oceanmoon Creative, a traveling creative studio rooted in slow travel philosophy. For more on Neomalsore, visit neomalsore.com or @neomalsore_agrotourism
